Stories of town explorations.
We told Mom we were just heading to a resort down the road—that was a lie, and by the time we reached Bessang Pass with numb fingers and no extra-warm jackets, I realized we'd stumbled onto a battlefield we never even learned about in school.
• The sun was scorching in Vigan that morning, but hours later, shivering at the top of a mountain in June, I kept waiting to see my own breath while standing in front of pine trees that had no business being in our province.
• I borrowed my late aunt's cheap digicam, we took off with nothing but a tiny scooter and empty stomachs, and somehow ended up at the Great Wall of China—except it was just a winding road in Cervantes, and it was the most beautiful accident of my life.
WE LIED TO OUR MOM. WE ENDED UP IN A BATTLEFIELD.
The road wasn't supposed to lead here—but in 2010, my brother and I rode straight into a piece of history we never learned in school.
The heat in Vigan that morning was brutal—the kind that sticks to your skin and makes your helmet feel like an oven. But the higher we climbed, the cooler it got. By the time we hit Bessang Pass, my fingers were numb; and I was dreaming to see my own breath. Snap, it was a tropical cold. Nah, my warm breath does not freeze on air. But... it was the coldest air I've ever felt during a hot month in our place—yeah, that was June... June 12th of 2010 to be exact.
Neither of us knew Bessang Pass was anything special. We pulled over because I saw a random road.
📍 CERVANTES
We took many photos, then we argued about moving forward or backing down. Nothing cinematic. Just two idiots riding on a small automatic motorbike, shaken, realizing we had to take a scooter with small gasoline tank down 60+ kilometers of mountain road with no cell signal.
That's when we noticed the pine trees. They looked out of place, like someone had dropped them there by mistake. Then we saw the markers—old war remnants, faded signs mentioning the Battle of Bessang Pass in 1945. We were standing on ground where soldiers had actually fought, and we'd only ended up there because we were too stubborn to turn around.
I don't have a neat lesson from that day. But sometimes, when I'm stuck in traffic or sitting through a boring meeting, my mind drifts back to that cold air, those sudden pine trees, and the quiet realization that we'd stumbled into something older and bigger than us—not because we were wise or curious, but because we were bored and were careless kids.
The mountain town I couldn’t forget
The road to Cervantes was a death sentence I'd always heard about—narrow, unpaved, one wrong turn away from a cliff drop. But when I finally took it in 2010, I found myself standing at a pine-clad mountain pass, alone with my brother, staring at what felt like my own province's secret Great Wall.
Oh yes... I'm from Ilocos Sur, and I had heard about the town of Cervantes several times. I always had the urge to go, but there had never been a chance; besides, it's too far from the city where I live.
I had always heard that the road going to Cervantes wasn't good. It was a matter of life and death! The roads were too narrow, with falling rocks from the mountain. The roads were unpaved; and a few steps away, it was KABOOOOOOOOOOM! You're falling off that cliff! If it rains, the town is literally isolated!
📍 CERVANTES
"Fifteen years later (rewriting and editing this story on 2026-July-10, five months after moving to America, I still catch myself drifting back to that random road."
📍 CERVANTES
My brother also lay on the concrete block, emulating what I had done. Using a cheap digicam I had borrowed from my late aunt, we were able to document our first experiences in Cervantes.
...that was before, but traveling through this road now is as smooth as silk. It is a beautiful winding road. If you're at a higher altitude, the road below may look like the Great Wall of China (or at least like what I have seen in photos). You may say, "I'm at the Great Wall of Ilocos!"
The highway was not busy. Most of the time, my brother and I were the only ones traveling along this highway. This scenario may change, though. Who knows? Cervantes might boom later, and the road will become busy. Lucky me, I witnessed it this way.
📍 CERVANTES
I love taking photos of myself. Sometimes, my self-photos become more important than the views. I took every opportunity to have my photo taken at each stop we made.
📍 CERVANTES
The first time I saw this marker of Cervantes, which was identical to the rest of the markers in all the towns in Ilocos Sur that year (a project of then-Gov. DV Savellano), I went over to have my photo taken
📍 CERVANTES
It was my first time seeing a mountain of pine trees inside my own province.
Although Baguio had already given me this kind of sight, it felt different to see pine-clad mountains for the first time in my own province. It was something I did not expect.
This was in 2010, when I was still new to this kind of traveling.
WE FOUND HISTORY BY ACCIDENT
They said the road to Cervantes would kill me—I rode it anyway and found my province's secret Great Wall.
Going to Cervantes that day was an accident. I just asked my brother to join me for a joyride. We reached Cervantes unexpectedly. We never thought we could.
We are not bad people, but we had to tell lies to pursue this adventure. We told our parents we were just going to a resort nearby because we knew they wouldn't let us traverse the highway. They said it was risky. One more thing: we were the only good-looking, boys-next-door in our village. The whole village was afraid its boys would get into an accident (this is my secret, keep it between you and me, lol—enough daydreaming).
📍 CERVANTES
Fifteen years later (rewriting and editing this story on 2026-July-10, five months after moving to America, I still catch myself drifting back to that random road.
📍 CERVANTES
My brother and I stopped at Nakayang view deck, where we saw the beautiful valley of Cervantes. .
📍 CERVANTES
My brother was enjoying the view of the beautiful Cervantes valley from the Nakayang view deck.
It was a hot day in Vigan, where we came from. We just decided to go to candon City, only to find ourselves already reaching the remote town of Cervantes with our scooter. That day was hot, and the sky was clear. There was no time for rain drama. But even though it was summer, it was cold in Bessang Pass.
See the images below. The ambiance was really cold. It would be so romantic for lovers to hug each other while driving (Huh? That sounds crazy). This time, it was my younger brother with me, whom I love; but hugging him while riding on a scooter would have been suicide! BRAGGGG!
📍 CERVANTES
Looking at this photo, it reminds me how chilly this spot was.
📍 CERVANTES
We went further, until we already started to descend. The road went zigzagging down to the valley. The cold breeze was replaced with hot air.
📍 CERVANTES
MY Honda Beat just made it!
We weren't able to see the must-sees of Cervantes, because we had no tour guide. We didn't know where to go. In fact, Cervantes is so historical. It was where a battle during World War II happened.
The town has the Yamashita Cave, McArthur Tunnel, Bessang Pass National Park, and Gambang Falls, which are all part of the history of the Philippines! For us, however, the scene we saw along the Cervantes highway was already a must-see, and the romantic, freezing breeze and ambiance of the town was a travel bonus! To my surprise, there were pine trees! It was an awesome view. It felt like I was in Baguio minus the crowd and commerce.
📍 CERVANTES
We spotted this rice field in the valley.
While we were on our way, there was a bike race going up to Bessang Pass. Bessang Pass is the highest point traversed by any highway system in Ilocos as of now. It is foggy and cold.
Cervantes is the crossing for the four provinces of Ilocos Sur, Abra, Benguet, and Mountain Province. Rice terraces are present in Cervantes too!
We didn't find closure or answers of our stupid side that day—just numb fingers, a borrowed camera, and a mountain that kept its secrets. But fifteen years later (rewriting and editing this story on 2026-July-10, five months after moving to America, I still catch myself drifting back to that random road, not because it changed me, but because for a few hours, I was completely, stupidly alive.
PHOTO GALLERY
NAGUSTUAM DIAY NABASAM/NAKITAM? MABALIN MO MET I-LIKE.
Stories of town explorations.
No destination is unworthy. All places, touristy or non-touristy, are destinations that could help enrich your life, understanding, and perspective.
• I judged Bangkok hard and skipped it for years. One night there proved me totally wrong—touristy doesn't mean unworthy.
• I thought "real Thailand" meant avoiding Bangkok. My first visit taught me how silly that was.
BANGKOK: What Nobody TOLD ME
First night in Bangkok: I bought that tank top in Siem Reap, but I wore it in Bangkok.
Anyway, I intentionally skipped Bangkok on my past Thailand visit because I was too judgmental. It turned out that I enjoyed this city, and it made me realize that experiencing the real Thailand isn't just about exploring its less-visited provinces. Actually, that's a wrong notion. You also have to visit Bangkok and its other popular destinations to witness its amazing twists and evolution as a result of successful tourism.
All the old, new, traditional, and modern things in Thailand are all part of Thailand's bigger picture. Thailand now is not Thailand without its not-so-Thai modern additions as a result of mass tourism. So whether it's an old town or a modern city shaped by tourism, it's still the real Thailand.
CONCLUSION: No destination is unworthy. All places—touristy or not—are destinations that can help enrich your life, understanding, and perspective.
These were my thoughts on my first night in Bangkok. I would love to share more stories in the future.
PHOTO GALLERY
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NAGUSTUAM DIAY NABASAM/NAKITAM? MABALIN MO MET I-LIKE.
Stories of town explorations.
"While Lucban continues to preserve the tangible and intangible remains of its past, the town also continues to embrace changes."
► I loved the changes... It did complement the past of Lucban, something that is still thriving in our present modern time.
► It was a gloomy day, but the mode of our family bonding was like sunny day!
[Lucban, Quezon Province, Calabarzon (Region 4-A), Luzon Island, Philippines]
▼ COVER PHOTO▼ YOUTUBE
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| 1 | [LUCBAN] ► LUCBAN CHURCH GRANDLY STANDS IN THE DOWNTOWN OF LUCBAN WITH THE CLOUD-CLAD PEAK OF MOUNT BANAHAW AT THE BACKGROUND. |
I have a big fascination for old/historical things. In Ilocos, I grew up seeing big old churches. As a kid, the old churches in my province were nothing but a normal public place. As I grew up, I learned the rich heritage and culture of the place where I was born. Because these are part of my identity as an Ilocano, my appreciation for the old churches in Ilocos also bloomed.
Speaking of old churches, I revisited the Lucban Church. It's my third time to visit Lucban as a tourist (for leisure). I had the chance to visit this town for several occasions now because there is a tour coordinator in my hometown ▼ #VIGANLATEST STORIES COVERING VIGAN targeting "religious older adults" for a pilgrimage.
While most joiners were our older aunts and uncles (titos and titas), millennials like me were also welcome.
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| 2 | [LUCBAN] ► THE CHURCH OF LUCBAN FOLLOWS A STYLE OF BAROQUE ARCHITECTURE. |
The organizer was not really marketing Lucban as a town to visit. She only offered a pilgrimage tour to Kamay ni Hesus. There is no real Lucban itinerary. The tour bus would leave Lucban for another pilgrimage site located in another province, after Kamay ni Hesus.
I've joined this pilgrimage tour for the third time now since 2014. For the succeeding tours, my main purpose was not really to visit the Kamay ni Hesus pilgrimage site anymore, but to explore the other side of Lucban—including the other towns of ▼ QUEZONLATEST STORIES COVERING QUEZON province. While joiners spent several hours at Kamay ni Hesus, I have always drafted with me a personal itinerary covering Lucban and beyond, which I did with my siblings in 2016, and now (2020) with my parents.
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| 3 | [LUCBAN] ► THESE COLORFUL SMALL HUTS WERE DISPLAYED ALONGSIDE THE FENCES OF THE CHURCH SQUARE. |
As the tour bus reached the destination (Kamay ni Hesus), I immediately figured out how to commute to the downtown of Lucban.
For our convenience (my parents are getting old), we just hailed a tricycle driver and took the trike to make it easier for all of us. Taking a jeep would be cheaper, but less convenient. Somehow, the 10-peso difference was not a significant damage for a working adult like me.
► What's New in 2020?
It's extremely interesting to witness the dynamism of a place. While Lucban continues to preserve the tangible and intangible remains of its past, the town also continues to embrace changes.
So what's new? My last visit to this church was in 2016. I noticed the red bricks installed around the church premises. The streets around were also changed into cobblestone (kind of, not sure but it looked like that).
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| 4 | [LUCBAN] ► THIS STRUCTURE MADE OF LIGHT MATERIALS STILL STANDS BESIDE THE CHURCH, BUT IT'S NOW STANDING OVER RED BRICKS. |
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| 5 | [LUCBAN] ► THIS STREET IN LUCBAN HAS TURNED INTO A COBBLESTONE PAVEMENT. |
I loved the changes. The changes applied, in my point of view as a non-historian/non-anthropologist, was pleasing to my eyes. It did complement the past of Lucban, something that is still thriving in our present modern time.
As a resident of a World Heritage City, I also noticed changes like these in my hometown; and they were very welcome.
► Bringing my Parents to Lucban Church
It's my father's first time in Lucban. It's my mom's third visit; and it's my youngest brother's second visit.
Prior to this, my mom called to inform me that the tour coordinator organized another trip to Lucban. She told me she would like to join the tour again not because she wanted to revisit Lucban, but because she wanted to see me here in Manila (aww, she missed me). With that, I told her to secure a slot for the five of us (whole family) and considered this a family bonding. Unfortunately, my other sibling wasn't able to join us due to work commitments.
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| 6 | [LUCBAN] ► WE TOOK THIS FAMILY PHOTO (INSERT EDISON) IN FRONT OF THE LUCBAN CHURCH. |
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| 7 | [LUCBAN] ► EDISON WAS MISSING DUE TO WORK COMMITMENT. |
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| 8 | [LUCBAN] ► IT FELT GOOD TO HANG OUT WITH MY FAMILY. I'VE BEEN WANTING THIS BADLY SINCE I WAS BASED IN MANILA. |
We skipped the Kamay ni Hesus meantime. We had ample time to visit Lucban. I didn't want to just spend all our time at Kamay ni Hesus when we could explore the downtown to find new food destinations and visit historical sites.
There was a wedding going on when we visited the Lucban Church. Although it was gloomy that time (it rained a little), we were not stopped to marvel on its beauty.
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| 9 | [LUCBAN] ► THE DETAILS OF THE WALL OF THE CHURCH CANNOT GO UNNOTICED. |
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| 10 | [LUCBAN] ► MARCH BRIDE INSIDE. BEST WISHES! |
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| 11 | [LUCBAN] ► IT WAS A GLOOMY DAY, BUT THE MOOD OF OUR FAMILY BONDING WAS LIKE A SUNNY DAY! |
Sadly, the clouds covered the beauty of Mt Banahaw. It would have been much better if we were able to see the beauty of the mystical mountain from the church.
► Taking Aerial/Drone Shots of the Church
I brought my drone in this trip with the eagerness to capture a different perspective of Lucban. At first, I was hesitant to bring out my drone because of the strong wind, but my drone managed to fly safely.
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| 12 | [LUCBAN] ► CAN YOU SPOT US? |
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| 13 | [LUCBAN] ► MOUNT BANAHAW CONCEALED ITSELF FROM US. |
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| 14 | [LUCBAN] ► UP CLOSE WITH LUCBAN CHURCH'S FAÇADE |
Prior to flying, I asked permission from the admin office of the parish if I could fly my drone. One of the personnel gave me an overwhelming positive response. I brought out my drone and launched its flight. Curious kids and some random individuals started approaching us. Curious kids were in awe. I knew they wanted to see what's on my screen but they seemed unsure what to do. I could see the amazement on their innocent faces.
I, too, was amazed to see the compact downtown of Lucban and to see the Lucban church serving as a majestic centerpiece of the town from the air.
I, too, was amazed to see the compact downtown of Lucban and to see the Lucban church serving as a majestic centerpiece of the town from the air.
This ends our family visit at Lucban Church. 💚 | end of story |
Maps Showing the Location of LUCBAN
► FOOTNOTES, DISCLAIMERS, ACKNOWLEDGMENT, ETC
✈ This post was filed under the categories "Heritage" and "Churches". See more posts related to this below.
✈ The maps I used on this post are from maps.google.com.ph and Mike Gonzalez and Eugene Alvin Villar (of Wikipedia).
✈ All photos are mine.
✈ The insights, condition and name of places or properties I mentioned here are based on the facts and situation on the day of my visit. Take note that you may have a different experience when you try the activities or see the properties/places mentioned here. Names of places and properties may also change by time.
► 12-April-2020: This post was published.
LATEST STORIES COVERING [LUCBAN] | SEE ALL IN A SEPARATE WINDOW
MORE STORIES COVERING QUEZON | SEE OLDER STORIES
LATEST STORIES COVERING THESE CATEGORIES | SEE OLDER STORIES
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NAGUSTUAM DIAY NABASAM/NAKITAM? MABALIN MO MET I-LIKE.
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